The pattern itself is really simple and can be easily adapted to other doll sizes. You just have to know how many stitches in circumference you need (e.g. for MH dolls I use 24 st = 6 st on each needle with 2mm needles).
For a poofy underskirt/skirt, you double that stitch count twice (6 st on each needle -> 12 on each needle -> 24 on each needle = 96 in the round).
The pattern will state the stitch count for MH size, but you get the drift 😉
(e.g. for my Makie, I use size 2.5 needles in the bodice and need 32 st. in the round for her circumference (=128 st. for skirt round).
Alternatively, you can double the stitches just once, this will give a less poofy skirt part. (Only one decrease row, then)
For the skirt, I will use one size lager needles, but that is optional. If you prefer to use just one size (e.g. 2 mm for MH), ignore prompts to change needle size.
Because I enjoy your suffering, I will explain everything for knitting in the round, which is a real pain when it comes to joining the skirts. Prepare for tears and profanities (or, if you are weak, just knit the skirt part flat 😉 That will make joinning the skirts much easier, but you will have to sew up the back of the skirt part. Join the stitches in the round for the bodice part then.)
On to the pattern!
Pattern for MH size:
You will need: 5 dpn in 2.5mm, 5 dpn in 2 mm, fingering weight yarn (4ply sock yarn, ~ 50 g / 210 m) in two colours
With your 2.5mm needles CO 96 st in the colour of your underskirt, divide onto four needles (24 st each) and join in the round.
Decide which kind of edge you would like.
For a picot edge, knit 3 rounds, then knit one round of *YO – k2tog*, knit another 3 rounds
Or just start with k one round, p one round, k one round, p one round
Knit happily along in rounds until nearly the desired length for the skirt part.
(Nearly because we will need some more rounds to decrease, join the skirts and reach the bodice part.)
Now, we decrease the poofy skirt to reach the circumference needed for the bodice part:
For one round, *k2tog* (=48 st)
Knit one round.
2nd decrease round: for one round, *k2tog* (=24 st.)
Change to needles 2mm.
Knit one round.
Put underskirt aside, still on the needles! (or, if you only have this one set of dpn, use large safety pins. On second thougt, several large safety pins are safer anyway, as they will decrease the risk of losing stitches when joining the skirt parts…However, if you knitted that part flat, leave it on the needle! In that case, you will need a second needle). Break yarn.
Skirt part of the dress:
Knit as underskirt, but in your main colour. If you are feeling frisky, e.g. give the skirt a picot edge and the underskirt a straight edge, or vice versa. Leave on your working needles and do not break the yarn!
Knitting in the underskirt (or the part where we will be silently mouthing profanities)
Line up both skirts (put the underskirt into the skirt part). For one unhappy round (or row, if you are weak), you will have to knit together one stitch of the skirt (in front) with one stitch of the underskirt (behind your working needle). Good luck. Do not kill anyone. Just take your time with it, breathe, and remember it will only be for that one round.
Still have your 24 stitches and no running stitches in the underskirt? Congratulation! You can now start with the
The worst is done, the bodice really is a breather.
Either just knit, or knit in *k1, p1* rib pattern to desired length. Try on your doll to find the best length.
If you would like a strapless dress, cast off in pattern, weave in ends and you are done 🙂
For shoulder straps, k one round in k1, p1 (if you were knitting in stockinette), then
k5 (in pattern) – cast off 2 – k 10 (in pattern) – cast off 2 – k5 (in pattern)
(consider the knitting and cast off separately, let the 5 st stand, then k2 and cast off, this is your first st cast off, etc.)
In the next round, k5 (in pattern) – CO 6 st – k10 (in pattern) – CO 6 st – k5 (in pattern)
Knit two rounds in pattern.
Bind off in pattern. Weave in all ends.