Basic Cardigan (for Makie, should also fit Blythe)

Once you get the hang of knitting jumpers in the round, you might also desire a little cardigan (because what else is a cardigan than basically a jumper that is open in the front).

 

Pink Cardigan

As I mostly knit in the round, I had to really pay attention while counting for the raglan increase so I would not lose my place. If you are knitting this for the first time and/or have no prior experience e.g. knitting a jumper, I would recommend to use markers to mark off the four different partitions 😉

For this cardigan, I used cicular knitting needles 2mm for the body and 4 dpn 2mm for the sleeves (I guess you could also knit the sleeves on the circular either in rounds or rows, but I have not tried this out).

My guess is that for MH dolls, you will need only 32 st in circumference and 16 for each sleeve, but I will try this out and put it in a separate post. (My knitting is quite slow currently, as I should not be knitting at all with my busted shoulder ^^”)

So, here goes the pattern:

Needles: circular 2mm (+4dpn 2mm, “optional”)
Yarn: fingering yarn (4ply, e.g. Regia sock wool)
Four middle to large safety pins (or spare needles, or spare yarn – anything to put stitches aside on)

Cast on 32 st.
Knit in 1k 1p ribbing for 3-5 rows (depending on how high you would like the collar to be)R1: Now we will cast on the stitches for the lapel: cast on 3 st (or more if you would like the lapel to be broader), knit row, cast on 3 st.
The lapel stitches are always knitted! (garter stitch)
Now we work the raglan increase for the sleeves:
R2: k3, *p3, YO, p2, YO, p3* (repeat 4x), k3 (46 st; 40 for the body and 2×3 for the lapel)
R3: knit. The yarn over is always knitted purlwise to avoid holes.
R4: k3, *p4, YO, p2, YO, p4* (repeat 4x), k3 (54 st; 48+6)
R5: knit (k YO p.wise)
R6: k3, *p5, YO, p2, YO, p5* (repeat 4x), k3 (62 st; 56+6)
R7: knit (k YO p.wise)
R8: k3, *p6, YO, p2, YO, p6* (repeat 4x), k3 (70 st; 64+6)
R9: knit (k YO p.wise)
R10: k3, *p7, YO, p2, YO, p7* (repeat 4x), k3 (78 st; 72+6)
R11: knit (k YO p.wise)
R12: k3, *p8, YO, p2, YO, p8* (repeat 4x), k3 (86 st; 80+6)
R13: knit (k YO p.wise)
(For better understanding:
What we now have on our needles is: 3 st lapel, 10 st left front, 20 st. left sleeve, 20st. back, 20 st. rightsleeve, 10st. right front, 3 st. lapel)
Now, we put aside the sleeves:
R14: k3, p10, put 10 st. on one safety pin, put 10 st. on another safety pin, p20, put 10 st. on one safety pin, put 10 st. on another safety pin, p10, k3
R15: knit (46 st)
(If you prefer a straight cardigan, keep this st count and continue to nearly desired legth)
R16: k3, to give your cardigan a bit of flare, increase 10 st evenly distributed throughout=p40+10, k3 (or double each stitch, or each second st, or each third st… always depending on what flare you would like)
R17: knit (56 st)
Continue in stockinette to nearly the desired lengths. Finish with some rows of garter stitch (at least 3), bind off.

Sleeves:
It is recommended to start the round under the arm so you can sew up the little hole that might form under the arm with your yarn end.
Distribute the 20 st on 3 dpn, picking up 2 additional st under the arm to lessen the little hole.
Knit to nearly desired lengths. Finish with some rows of garter stitch (at least 3), bind off.
Work other sleeve the same.

Weave in all ends.

If desired, sew on a little button and on the other side make a little crochet loop (chain st) to fasten.

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