Teal cable sweater, MSD size

Blue cable sweater

This is again a fairly standard sweater, no waist shaping or anything, but this time, with cables 🙂 Top-down raglan, seamless. MSD size (my lovely little model is an Obitsu 40 cm body with the “Kanna” head).

The “real” cables are in the front (middle) and on the sleeves. The smaller cables are just mock cables with crossed stitches.

This pattern has not yet been test knitted! Therefore, proceed with care and please let me know if you encounter any discrepancies! (… be my guinnea pigs 😉 )

Please refer to the measurement chart for Obitsus; my model is an Obitsu 40, and e.g. for Minifee, the sweater is rather on the “comfy” side (i.e. bit too wide)

  • 2mm DPN
    4-ply yarn (plain coloured will work better for the cabled effect in my opinion)
    We will need in total 4×18 st circ, sleeves to 2x(16+2 pickup)
  • READ PATTERN before you start. Cry. Take needles, say a prayer to whichever deity, and start.
    (Yes, I do take delight in the fact that the first time reading the pattern will for you be the same nightmare that writing it was for me ];-> ) I tried my best to make it as easy as possible to understand. If you have questions or find any mistakes, please drop me a line here or on ravelry.
  • Cast on 56 st
  • for collar knit k2p2 for x rounds (about 20, depending of how much collar you want); best fold it from time to time to see how big it gets.
  • After collar, divide onto 4DPN, 14 per needle:
    N1 = right back + back right sleeve;
    N2 = front right sleeve + right front;
    N3 = left front + front left sleeve;
    N4 = back left sleeve + left back
  • Pattern set up is for 1 cable at each sleeve, back straight, front one cable in the middle framed by stockinette bars and mock cables at each side. You can easily omit cables, add more mock cables instead of the stockinette bars etc.
  • Cables: setup allows for easy cabling.
    For “real”cable, p2 framing purl stitches, leave k2 st on the needle and put it on the outside of your work, with new needle knit first 2 st from following needle, then knit the 2 stitches that were held aside, then go on with p2 an on in pattern.
    These “real cables” are in the front middle and on each sleeve. You will start in Round 6 doing these cables.
    mock cables: in every 4th round, when you come to the 2 knit stitches, knit the second one first, but leave on the left hand needle, then knit the first one and only then slip both to your right hand needle. I left the stockinette section on either side of the center cable alone, but you can also do mock cables here.
  • Round 1: N1 = k6, YO, k2, YO, k2, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k2, YO, k2, YO, k2, p2, k2; N3 = k2, p2, k2, YO, k2, YO, k2, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k2, YO, k2, YO, k6
  • Round 2: knit in pattern (k knit st & p purl st), YO are knit purlwise twisted closed in order to avoid holes (= 64 st)
  • Round 3: N1 = k7, YO, k2, YO, k3, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k3, YO, k2, YO, p1, k2, p2, k2; N3 = k2, p2, k2, p1, YO, k2, YO, k3, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k3, YO, k2, YO, k7
  • Round 4: knit in pattern (k knit st & p purl st), BUT: work the mock cables on the front (refer to picture, or mock cable all, or do not mock cable at all, whatever you like); YO are knit purlwise and twisted closed in order to avoid holes (= 72 st)
  • Round 5:  N1 = k8, YO, k2, YO, k4, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k4, YO, k2, YO, p2, k2, p2, k2; N3 = k2, p2, k2, p2, YO, k2, YO, k4, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k4, YO, k2, YO, k8
  • Round 6: knit in pattern (k knit st & p purl st), BUT: work “real” cables, YO are knit purlwise and twisted closed in order to avoid holes (= 80 st)
  • Round 7:  N1 = k9, YO, k2, YO, k5, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k5, YO, k2, YO, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2; N3 = k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, YO, k2, YO, k5, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k5, YO, k2, YO, k9
  • Round 8: knit in pattern (k knit st & p purl st), BUT: work mock cables, YO are knit purlwise and twisted closed in order to avoid holes (= 88 st)
  • Round 9:  N1 = k10, YO, k2, YO, k6, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k6, YO, k2, YO, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2; N3 = k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, YO, k2, YO, k6, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k6, YO, k2, YO, k10
  • Round 10: knit in pattern (k knit st & p purl st),  YO are knit purlwise and twisted closed in order to avoid holes (= 96st)
  • Round 11:  N1 = k11, YO, k2, YO, k7, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k7, YO, k2, YO, p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2; N3 = k2, p2, k2, p2, k2 p1, YO, k2, YO, k7, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k7, YO, k2, YO, k11
  • Round 12: knit in pattern (k knit st & p purl st), BUT: work all cables, mock and real, YO are knit purlwise and twisted closed in order to avoid holes (= 104 st)
  • Round 13:  N1 = k12, YO, k2, YO, k8, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k8, YO, k2, YO, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2; N3 = k2, p2, k2, p2, k2 p2, YO, k2, YO, k8, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k8, YO, k2, YO, k12
  • Round 14: knit in pattern (k knit st & p purl st), YO are knit purlwise and twisted closed in order to avoid holes (= 112 st)
  • Round 15:  N1 = k13, YO, k2, YO, k9, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k9, YO, k2, YO, k1,p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2; N3 = k2, p2, k2, p2, k2 p2, k1,YO, k2, YO, k9, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k9, YO, k2, YO, k13
  • Round 16: knit in pattern (k knit st & p purl st), BUT: work the mock cables, YO are knit purlwise and twisted closed in order to avoid holes (= 120 st)
  • Round 17:  N1 = k14, YO, k2, YO, k10, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k10, YO, k2, YO, k2,p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2; N3 = k2, p2, k2, p2, k2 p2, k2,YO, k2, YO, k10, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k10, YO, k2, YO, k14
  • Round 18: knit in pattern (k knit st & p purl st), BUT: work the “real” cables (front AND sleeves sections), YO are knit purlwise and twisted closed in order to avoid holes (= 128 st)
  • Round 19:  ! no more increases on the sleeves sections !
    N1 = k15, YO, k2, k11, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k11, k2, YO, p1, k2,p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2; N3 = k2, p2, k2, p2, k2 p2, k2, p1, YO, k2, k11, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k11, k2, YO, k15
  • Round 20: knit in pattern (k knit st & p purl st), BUT: work the mock cables, YO are knit purlwise and twisted closed in order to avoid holes (= 132 st)
  • Round 21:  ! no more increases on the sleeves sections !
    N1 = k16, YO, k12, k10, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k11, k2, YO, p2, k2,p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2; N3 = k2, p2, k2, p2, k2 p2, k2, p2, YO, k2, k11, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k11, k2, YO, k16
  • Round 22: knit in pattern (k knit st & p purl st), YO are knit purlwise and twisted closed in order to avoid holes (= 136 st, TOTAL stitch count reached 🙂 18 st right back – 32 st right sleeve – 36 st front – 32 st left sleeve – 18 st left back)
  • Round 23: put sleeves aside (on waste yarn, safety pins, stitch holders…)
    knit 18 st in pattern (k knit st & p purl st), put 32 st aside, knit 18 st in pattern (k knit st & p purl st) 2x, put 32 st. aside for sleeve, knit 18 st in pattern (k knit st & p purl st).
  • The worst is over, now only knit in pattern to desired length (remember to cable; “real” cable in every 6th row, mock cables in every 4th (both now in round 24!)
  • When desired length is reached, end on about 4 rounds of k2p2 ribbing. Bind off with a stretchy bind off ( see last sweater pattern; stretchy added on every 2nd st is enough)
  • Sleeves: worked on 3 DPN (10-12-10). Start under the arm in order to close small gap by picking up two stitches each on needle N1 and N3 under the arm (=36 in round, 12-12-12). Either keep the 36 or decrease 2 in next round and some rounds later to the number you want. Decrease on N1 (k1, ssk) and N3 (k to last 3, k2tog, k1).
    Mind the cables! in every 6th round (starting with cabling in the first round!). Work to desired length, end on about 4 rounds of k2p2 ribbing.
  • Weave in all ends, if there still is a little gap under the arm, sew closed with the yarn end.
  • Put the sweater on your doll. Take a picture 🙂
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