Even though normally I love variegated sock yarns, sometimes even I need plain colours to rest my eyes for a bit 😉
Auch wenn ich normalerweise eher die Sockenwolle mit Farbverlauf bevorzuge, ist hie und da einfarbiges Garn auch mal eine Erholung für die Augen 😉
Cable patterns can be a bit of PITA, so please bear with me and alert me if you find any mistakes in the pattern in the counting… with that as your fair warning, on to the pattern!
(Eine deutsche Übersetzung diese Anleitung gibt es, falls jemand danach fragt. Ich vermeide die Arbeit, bis ich weiß, ob überhaupt jemand die Anleitung auf Deutsch haben möchte 😉 )
This pattern is for an SD sized doll (~60 cm). Our lovely model is modeled after a Feeple60 moe body (Sionna head sculpt)
- You will need:
- DPN 2.5 mm (optionally + DPN 2mm)
- one additional needle for cabling (any similar sized needle will do, in a pinch use a safety pin)
- 4-ply fingering weight yarn (best one plain colour to bring out the cables)
- N(1,2,3,4) = Needle 1,2,3,
- k= knit; p=purl, YO=yarn over; M1=make one
- READ PATTERN before you start to see if everything is clear.
- Cables: setup allows for easy cabling of the broad main cable.
- For “fat”cable, p2 framing purl stitches, leave k3 st on the needle and put it on the outside (right side) of your work, with new needle knit first 3 st from following needle, then knit the 3 stitches that were held aside, then go on with p2 an on in pattern (c3front)
- The “fat cable” is done in every 10th round with the last 3 st of N2 and the first 3 st of N3!
- For the smaller cables framing the big cable, knit to cable st (4st), then put 2 st on the outside of your work on a spare needle, knit the next 2 st, put the held 2 st back on your left hand needle and knit these (c2front). These are done with the columns of 4 knit st besides the middle cable.
And also on the sleeves with the 4 knit stitches framed by 2 purl st (last 2 st of N1 and first 2 st of N2 AND last 2 st of N3 and first 2 st of N4)
- These smaller cables are done in every 6th row.
- If you do not like the framing cables, you can just omit these and knit these “colums” in knit st.
- If you do not like the cables on the sleeves, you can also omit purl stitches in the sleeve sections (see below).
- start cabling around round 3
- CABLES WILL NOT BE PROMPTED SEPARATELY. Basically, this mention is your only warning 😉 keep track of your row-count
Cast on 56 stCast on 64 st!
(optionally knit the collar/cuffs with needles size 2mm)
Updated 2016-06-06: This error has been pointed out to me, technically, you CAN start with 56, which would be 14/needle, but it would need an additional increase round (*k6, YO, k2,YO,k6* – k one round) and the collar would not be wide enough to squeeze the doll through, but it might be an option if you like to take the head off for dressing and prefer slimmer collars.
- close to knit in the round
- knit k2p2 for as high as you want the collar to be (I made about 10 cm)
- After collar, divide onto 4DPN, 16 per needle:
N1 = right back + back of right sleeve;
N2 = front of right sleeve + right front;
N3 = left front + front of left sleeve;
N4 = back of left sleeve + left back
- After collar, knit one round. The start the raglan increase and set up as follows:
- Round 1: N1 = k7, YO, k2, YO, k3, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k3, YO, k2, YO, k2, p2, k3; N3 = k3, p2, k2, YO, k2, YO, k3, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k3, YO, k2, YO, k7 (72st)
- Round 2 and all even rounds during raglan increase (4, 6, 8, …): knit the stitches as they appear; knit the YO through the back loop/twist it close in order to avoid holes.
- Round 3: (remember to start cabling here )
N1 = k8, YO, k2, YO, k4, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k4, YO, k2, YO, k3, p2, k3; N3 = k3, p2, k3, YO, k2, YO, k4, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k4, YO, k2, YO, k8 (80st)
- Round 5: N1 = k9, YO, k2, YO, k5, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k5, YO, k2, YO, k4, p2, k3; N3 = k3, p2, k4, YO, k2, YO, k5, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k5, YO, k2, YO, k9 (88 st)
- Round 7: N1 = k10, YO, k2, YO, k6, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k6, YO, k2, YO, p1, k4, p2, k3; N3 = k3, p2, k4, p1, YO, k2, YO, k6, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k6, YO, k2, YO, k10 (96 st)
- Round 9: N1 = k11, YO, k2, YO, k7, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k7, YO, k2, YO, p2, k4, p2, k3; N3 = k3, p2, k4, p2, YO, k2, YO, k7, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k7, YO, k2, YO, k11 (104 st)
Now each sleeve has 2×13 st, we will not increase anymore for the sleeves!
- Round 11: N1 = k12, YO, k2, k8, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k8, k2, YO,
k2k1, p2, k4, p2, k3; N3 = k3, p2, k4, p2, k1, YO, k2, k8, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k8, k2, YO, k12 (108 st)
- Round 13: N1 = k13, YO, k2, k8, p2, k2; N2 = k2, p2, k8, k2, YO,
k3k2, p2, k4, p2, k3; N3 = k3, p2, k4, p2, k2, YO, k2, k8, p2, k2; N4 = k2, p2, k8, k2, YO, k13 (112 st)
- After round 14 we have now reached the total stitch count: 4*15 for the body and 4*13 for the sleeves. We will now put the sleeves aside:
- Round 15: k15, put aside on e.g. spare yarn or stitch holder 26 st (right sleeve), k4, p2, k4, p2, k6, p2, k4, p2, k4, put aside on e.g. spare yarn or stitch holder 26 st (left sleeve), k 15.
- Round 16 and following: knit stitches as they appear and don’t forget the cabling 😉
- Optional increase in round 18: N1=k to last st, make one (M1), k1, N2=k1, M1, k rest, N3= as N1; N4=as N2
- knit for as long as you want your jumper to be (really, if you do some more increases, you can even make it a dress 😉 )
- End with four rounds of k2p2
- Use a half-stretchy bind-off! k1, YO, k1, bind off 2nd st with YO, bind off that st with the 1st knit st. p1, bind off, YO, p1, bind off purl st with YO etc. etc. (Basically, double each second st with a bound off YO)
- Sleeves: with 3 or 4 DPN, pick up the 26 st and pick up 4 additional st under the arm (two on every side) to avoid a gap. Decrease 2 st in round 2: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 st, k2tog, k1.
- Knit the st. in pattern as they appear and remember your cabling 😉
- knit the sleeves for as long as you want them. (I used 50 rounds in pattern + 4 rounds cuff.)
- Knit the last four rounds in k2p2.
- Bind off in pattern.
- (repeat for 2nd sleeve)
A German translation of this pattern will be provided only if anyone wants it 😉 (basically, I do not want to do that work without knowing if anyone needs it at all)