Littlefee (YoSD) Footed PJs -Patternception

 

Okay, so as we’re going about this like for a jumper in the beginning – insta-sweater tutorial included 😉 and for the adventurous, also a teensy sock pattern.

Littlefee footed pajamas

 

  • “Gauge” (not absolutely precise): I counted 7 st on 2cm (by putting a measuring tape on the front of the body and counting how many st were on 2 cm width)
  • You will need:
    DPN 2 mm AND 1.5 mm (this time, the smaller size is non-optional, as we will need it for the feet!
    (you will not absolutely need 1.5 mm needles if you only plan on a sweater)
  • 4-ply fingering weight yarn
  • N(1,2,3,4) = Needle 1,2,3,4
  • k= knit; p=purl, YO=yarm over; tbl: through the back loop

Body:

  • With needle 2mm, cast on 48, close for knitting in the round on 4 needles (12 st each)
    Some might find this collar be a bit wide, however, be aware that the doll will have to be dressed from the feet. If you want a smaller collar, you’ll have to work the first part of the body flat to have a back opening.
  • Rounds 1-4: k1p1 ribbing
  • Round 5: *k5, YO, k2, YO, k5* per needle, then knit one round (knit YO tbl to avoid holes)
  • Round 7: *k6, YO, k2, YO, k6* per needle, then knit one round (knit YO tbl to avoid holes)
  • Round 9: *k7, YO, k2, YO, k7* per needle, then knit one round (knit YO tbl to avoid holes)
    Now you basically have, from the start of the round:
    (N1) 9 stitches for right back, 9 st for half right sleeve,
    (N2) 9 st for half right sleeve, 9 st for right front,
    (N3) 9 st for left front, 9 st for half left sleeve,
    (N4) 9 st. for half left sleeve, 9 st for left back.
    From now on, only increase for the body, not the sleeves:
  • Round 11: N1 + N3: k8, YO, k10; N2 + N4: k10, YO, k8, then knit one round (=76 st; 4*10 for body and 4*9 for sleeves)
  • Round 13: putting aside the sleeves: knit 10, put aside 18 on spare yarn/safety pins/whatever, knit 20, put aside 18 for second sleeve, knit 10 (=40 in round)
  • knit for 5 rounds
  • increase round:
    • Needle 1+3: k to last st, m1, k1
    • Needle 2+4: k1, m1, k rest (=44 in round)
  • knit 10 rounds
  • increase round: N1+3: k6, m1, k5; k2+4: k5, m1, k6 (=48 in round) [for sweater, this increase is optional, but we will need the additional width for the legs!]
  • knit 10 rounds [for sweater, knit to desired length, end with four rounds of k1p1 ribbing]

Legs:

  • divide for legs: knit 24 st, put the other 24 aside on waste yarn
  • close the “live” 24 st for knitting in the round (crotch will be beginning of round)
  • rd 1-10: knit
  • rd 11: decrease round: N1: k1, ssk, k 5 – N2: k8 – N3: k5, k2tog, k1 (22 st in round)
  • rd 12-20: knit  (you should just under the knee then)
  • rd 21: decrease round: N1: k1, ssk, k4 – N2: k8- N3: k4, k2tog, k1 (20 st in round)
  • rd 22-28: knit
  • Leg round 29: CHANGE TO 1.5 mm needles! and knit.
  • rd 30-31: knit
  • rd 32 knit, but divide the 20 st to four needles with 5 st each
  • ! now, the foot part starts, which is basically just a tiny sock 😉 (=add a cuff first [CO 20 st on 1.5 mm needles, k1p1 for some rounds, knit for as long as you want the sock to be] and you’ll have socks! More patternception! XD)
  • FOOT PART: or more likely, heel part first 😉
  • you ended knitting the last 5 st of the round. knit 5 of N1 and knit 5 st (of N2) on the same needle to merge this with N1 so you have one needle with 10 st and two needles (N3+N4) with 5 st each.
  • You will for the heel only use the needle with the  10 st.
  • TURN. Slip one st with yarn in front (pull rather tight), p(PURL!)9 (leave the stitch you doubled first alone)
  • TURN. Slip one st with yarn in front (pull rather tight), k8 (to the doubled st)
  • TURN. Slip one st with yarn in front (pull rather tight), p7 (basically, you are knitting between the doubled [slipped] st and adding one with every turn)
  • TURN. Slip one st with yarn in front (pull rather tight), k6
  • TURN. Slip one st with yarn in front (pull rather tight), p5
  • TURN. Slip one st with yarn in front (pull rather tight), k4
    (These four are your “middle heel” stitches. When knitting a short row heel, you basically try to divide the stitches you have, which are half your total stitches, by three with the sides having equal amounts and the middle having an even number of stitches. Here: 10 = 3 , 4, 3). You have now finished the first half of the heel.
  • Knit the three doubled stitches. Pull yarn tightly to avoid gaps.
  • Knit N2 and N3
  • Knit the three doubled stitches.
  • k4
  • TURN. Slip one st with yarn in front (pull rather tight), p3 (so you have 4 in total, the slipped and the p3)
  • TURN. Slip one st with yarn in front (pull rather tight), k to slipped st (=k3), k this st (4th), k one more st (5th).
  • TURN. Slip one st with yarn in front (pull rather tight). Purl to slipped st (5 st), p slipped st, p one more st.
  • Continue working this fashion until you reach the ends of the heel needle. Last doubled st. is worked in a right side row. Then continue knitting in the round. Knit the doubled st. tightly.
  • knit for 10 rounds. You can keep the 10 st on one needle, you just need to remember that these are basically Needle 1 AND Needle 4 (first 5 st are N1, next five st are N4)
  • Rd 11: N1 + N3: k2, k2tog, k1 / N2+N4: k1, ssk, k2. Knit one round.
  • Rd 13: N1+N3: k1, k2tog, k1  / N2+N4: k1, ssk, k1. Knit one round
  • Rd 15: N1+N3: k2tog, k1  / N2+N4: k1, ssk
  • This leaves you with 8 st. Cut yarn, leaving a tail long enough to pull these st. together.
  • Work second leg the same. BE CAREFUL TO HAVE BOTH FEET POINT IN THE SAME DIRECTION. (I’m serious here; when I knitted the first draft of this, I was watching TV and suddenly had one foot point in the wrong direction…)

Sleeves

  • pick up the 18 st on 3 needles (6-6-6) and pick up 2*2 additional st under the arm (N1 and N3) to avoid a gap. (You can either decrease these new st after one round or keep them for slightly wider sleeves. I decreased one of the stitches and made the sleeves with 20 st.).
    Knit to desired lenght and cast off, either in stockinette or knit 3 rows k1p1 ribbing for cuff. (I used 28 rds with needle 2mm + 4 rds in k1p1 with 1.5 mm needles).

 

NOTE: If you make a sweater, for binding off, I like to use a “half stretchy bind off”, i.e. for binding off, k1, YO, p1, bind off purl st with YO, bind off that st with the knit st. k1, bind off, YO, p1, bind off purl st with YO etc. etc. (Basically, double only the purl stitches)

Bonus picture: Also fits nicely on the Makie, if maybe a bit adorably oversized 😉

Makie PJs

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